GLOSSARY Common
used abreviations:
COL:
Cologne
EDC:
Eau de Cologne
EDT:
Eau de Toilette
EDP:
Eau de Parfum
SP:
Spray
SPL:
Splash
A/S:
After Shave
1921 - Couturier Gabrielle Chanel launches her own brand of perfume, created by Ernest Beaux, she calls it Chanel Nș5 because it was the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux presented her.
Ernest Beaux was the first to use aldehydes (see perfumery ingredients) in perfumery. In fact,
Chanel Nș5 was the first completely synthetic mass-market fragrance.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT PERFUME AND FRAGRANCES
per·fume - A substance that emits and diffuses a fragrant odor. The word perfume is from the Latin phrase "perfumum" meaning "through smoke."
The first perfume substances were burned for sacred purposes. The smoke was thought to carry messages to the deities.
HISTORY Perfume was first used by the Egyptians as part of their religious rituals. The two principal methods
of use at this time was the burning of incense and the application of balms and ointments. Perfumed
oils were applied to the skin for eithercosmetic or medicinal purposes. During the Old and Middle
Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved exclusively for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies.
Then during the New Kingdom (1580-1085 BC) they were used during festivals and Egyptian women
also used perfumed creams and oils as toiletries ar cosmetics and as preludes to love-making. The
use of perfume then spread to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And it was the Islamic
community that kept the use of perfumes since the spread of Christianity led to a decline in the use
of perfume. With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume's influence dwindled. It was not until the
twelfth century and the development of international trade that this decline was reversed.
Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves became popular in
France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in
France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents
which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. The eighteenth
century saw a revolutionary advance in perfumery with the invention of eau de Cologne. This
refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of different ways:
diluted in bath water, mixed with wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash, an enema or an
ingredient for a poultice, injected directly... and so on. The variety of eighteenth-century perfume
containers was as wide as that of the fragrances and their uses. Sponges soaked in scented
vinaigres de toilette were kept in gilded metal vinaigrettes. Liquid perfumes came in beautiful Louis
XIV-style pear-shaped bottles. Glass became increasingly popular, particularly in France with the
opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765.
As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo profound change in the nineteenth century.
Changing tastes and the development of modern chemistry laid the foundations of perfumery as we
know it today. Alchemy gave way to chemistry and new fragrances were created. The French
Revolution had in no way diminished the taste for perfume, there was even a fragrance called
"Parfum a la Guillotine." Under the post-revolutionary government, people once again dared to
express a penchant for luxury goods, including perfume. A profusion of vanity boxes containing
perfumes appeared in the 19th century.
Soon bottling became more important. Perfume maker Francois Coty formed a partnership with Rene
Lalique. Lalique then produced bottles for Guerlain, D'Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and
others. Baccarat then joined in, producing the bottle for Mitsouko (Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and
others. Brosse glassworks created the memorable bottle for Jeanne Lanvin's Arpege, and the
famous Chanel No.5.
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GLOSSARY Common used abreviations: COL: Cologne EDC: Eau de Cologne EDT: Eau de Toilette EDP: Eau de Parfum SP: Spray SPL: Splash A/S: After Shave
launches her own brand of perfume, created by Ernest Beaux, she calls it Chanel Nș5 because it was the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux presented her.
Ernest Beaux was the first to use aldehydes (see perfumery ingredients) in perfumery. In fact,
Chanel Nș5 was the first completely synthetic mass-market fragrance.
HISTORY
Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves became popular in
France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in
France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents
which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. The eighteenth
century saw a revolutionary advance in perfumery with the invention of eau de Cologne. This
refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of different ways:
diluted in bath water, mixed with wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash, an enema or an
ingredient for a poultice, injected directly... and so on. The variety of eighteenth-century perfume
containers was as wide as that of the fragrances and their uses. Sponges soaked in scented
vinaigres de toilette were kept in gilded metal vinaigrettes. Liquid perfumes came in beautiful Louis
XIV-style pear-shaped bottles. Glass became increasingly popular, particularly in France with the
opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765.
As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo profound change in the nineteenth century.
Changing tastes and the development of modern chemistry laid the foundations of perfumery as we
know it today. Alchemy gave way to chemistry and new fragrances were created. The French
Revolution had in no way diminished the taste for perfume, there was even a fragrance called
"Parfum a la Guillotine." Under the post-revolutionary government, people once again dared to
express a penchant for luxury goods, including perfume. A profusion of vanity boxes containing
perfumes appeared in the 19th century.
Soon bottling became more important. Perfume maker Francois Coty formed a partnership with Rene
Lalique. Lalique then produced bottles for Guerlain, D'Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and
others. Baccarat then joined in, producing the bottle for Mitsouko (Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and
others. Brosse glassworks created the memorable bottle for Jeanne Lanvin's Arpege, and the
famous Chanel No.5.
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